1. Tighten the house with moisture problems
Energy efficiency can be directly related to the warm air that is leaking from your home. Therefore, most of us understand that sealing the air and tightening our home will make them more energy-efficient. Correct, but it’s extremely important to get rid of moisture problems before we do that. Moisture trapped inside the house creates condensation, structural damage, mold growth and poor indoor air quality.
The sources of moisture can be dirty basements and crawl, unsealed concrete slabs or fish tank walls, gas cooking, cooking without using pots, pots, shower areas, too many plants, greenhouses. That opens to living space Or vents that do not vent outside, open pumps and many other sources. The best way to do this is to eliminate the moisture source before the air is sealed in the house. If you are unable to eliminate the source, encapsulate. If you are unable to encapsulate, try to spread it.
2. Replace the window first
Windows are very expensive, windows hardly pay for themselves to install power before considering the lifespan of windows. Who wants to wait 25, 35, or 45 years, plus to let the windows pay themselves. Current energy standards require that you put R- 3.3 windows in your home only. It is almost no better than the two R-2 windows you currently have. The most cost-effective solution for additional window installation is to seal the window during installation, not a real window.
Therefore, before you change the leaky window, check to see if you can remove the trim and the air edge. If you have a broken window or a window with water droplets between the glass panes, it is a good time to replace the window. In addition, if you have an old house with weights and chains, windows may be your greatest benefit in replacing glass windows. The weight and chain of windows allows for significant air leakage in the house and cannot be effectively sealed without changing window operation.
3. No qualified energy experts assess your home
Many contractors will tell you that you don’t need to hire an energy expert to assess your home. However, energy experts are trained in both assessment and safety. Good energy inspectors not only But will assess your home only But there are still diagnostic tests to find the most effective parts to deal with those issues first In addition, energy inspectors should check your home for air quality problems, such as draft furnaces, low efficiency ventilation systems, gas leaks and toxic and excess moisture.
They should be able to give you a list of important energy improvements and return to test the air quality and safety of the heating system after the work is completed. Just add insulation to your attic without having to deal with potential problems – wasting your time and money.
4. Protect your attic without first sealing the air
As I have already said, adding special insulation does not mean that you are adding energy improvements. The attic space tends to have multiple openings between the living area and the cool attic. The movement of air from the living space to the attic increases heat loss in your home and also delivers warm, moist air to the attic. Warm, moist air often condenses on the roof and causes premature roof failures and mold growth. Insulation does not mean slowing down the air flow.
It means reducing the flow of conductive heat through the ceiling material. Therefore, if your insulation is not fully exposed to stone slabs or plaster ceilings This can happen because of improper fastening on the ceiling or insulation within the area. The air flows continuously between the surface of the ceiling and the surface of the insulation that is heated by the area around the penetrations. In the ceiling, draw the air because the heat increases through those holes with a little resistance.
Fiberglass insulation becomes a filter for that air, but it doesn’t stop. Cellulose insulation can reduce the flow. But still not stopped So the first thing you need to do when insulating the insulation into your attic is to seal the air around all the infiltration [pluming, electrical, mechanical, chimneys, open wall spaces, etc.] before adding. Layer of insulation Then make sure that the type of insulation you install will fit the ceiling surface below.
5. Forget the attic door.
Having only 7% gap in insulation can cause up to 50% of heat loss from your attic. Having an uninsulated attic door next to your R-49’s attic space can result in significant heat loss. Your heating system will work hard to heat that hole in your ceiling. The hatch under the roof will heat the attic continuously and needs heat to be warm.
Sometimes a fiberglass battery is placed at the top of the hatch attic. But the first time someone goes up through the batch, the side is moved to the side and rarely replaced Even if your attic is insulated inside But the door doesn’t quite seal the air, causing a lot of heat going into the attic space around the board or sheet of metal that serves as your attic. Therefore, even if you have fiberglass sheets on top of your attic, if it is not sealed with air, the insulation does nothing.
6. Pretend not to live in the basement
Basements are an important part of the building envelope and although we want to pretend that they don’t exist, they are the leading contributors to the loss of energy in the home. Concrete has almost no R value. Therefore, any part of the higher level foundation you have is a constant leak of heat to the exterior of your home.
You may notice that your flowers are blooming in early spring and the snow soon melts directly into your foundation.Then other areas, the basement is also the place where we store chemicals, firewood, paint and install. Our heating system If you install soft pipes in your basement, you can transfer all indoor air pollution to your living area directly.
Any gap between the basement for direct electrical and mechanical plumbing will suggest moisture and toxic substances from Your basement to the rest of your home And protection of basement ceilings will not stop air circulation and can often lead to pipe freezing and performance problems with your heating system.
Therefore, before you say that you want to do an energy project But you don’t want to talk about your basement, remember that you can create new problems you have never experienced before.
7. Ignore the air obstacles between the garage and the residential area.
And last but not least, ignoring the reason that the new construction code requires you to separate your living space and your garage.
For the purposes of the Code, many requirements are related to fire hazards. However, we learned in recent years, with the influx of tighter homes, contaminants in garages often lead to poor indoor air quality. Your car will continue to release carbon monoxide for several hours after it is shut down.
Similar to your basement, your garage is where you tend to collect chemicals and gas for your lawn mower. For these reasons, it’s very important that you keep a constant air gap between your garage and living space. This includes an attached garage and tuck under the garage, where the garage on the bottom has a living area on top.